Perfect Jacket Anatomy vol.1 : Huntsman

Huntsman is the most expensive Savile Row brand, and also the one of goals of dandyism.
If it is the most expensive in Savile Row, people would therefore consider it to be the best in the world.  I know some people would disagree with this.

Well, it is time to show some evidence that it is the most expensive jacket / suit.  This jacket is from the 90’s, and I was quite amazed when I took it apart, as I couldn’t find any negative points.  I can’t talk about the cutting in this case, as I don’t know the shape of the customer Huntsman made this for.

The front edge is machined. we don’t often see a hand sewn facing, either. ( If you ask, They (we) do for you. )

Casually saying, the ways of tailoring of  this jacket  such as, no fusing, hand sewn shoulder seams, and hand sewn armholes, are not really seen in Savile Row now.  However, some tailors do prefer to hand sew sleeves and shoulders on occasion.

I was surprised about the hand sewn shoulders and armholes, so I asked a huntsman tailor (she’s now left and has started her own business) if Huntsman’s still uses these methods or not.  She answered “NO”.  She also told me using fusing is only for inside flaps and belly darts as a stay.  Lots of tailors use fusing as reinforcement. Some Savile Row companies also have a padding machine.

The development of techniques makes things easier for people and maybe and lazier.  As I know both Italian tailoring and work for Savile Row, I can’t say that more hand sewing is better……However, it is not possible to say that handmade is always better than machine made.

Is this type of jacket extinct though?

All photos by Wosanai

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5 Comments

  1. Posted December 7, 2012 at 22:45 | Permalink | Reply

    Reblogged this on Dorothy Savile and commented:
    My boyfriend has spent a great deal of time, carefully unpicking a Huntsman jacket. You can see the results of his efforts here~

  2. Posted December 8, 2012 at 03:56 | Permalink | Reply

    Thank you for this autopsy terrific resource

  3. Posted December 9, 2012 at 22:07 | Permalink | Reply

    This is awesome. I didn’t know the wings were pad stitched too. My Bunka coat sewing textbook is the only book so far which has covered the wings adequately.. Also the strange thing over the sleeve-head (the elongated pattern piece) what is that? Came here via the Tailoress blog btw.

    • Posted December 11, 2012 at 19:39 | Permalink | Reply

      thanks.

      >>(the elongated pattern piece) what is that?

      it is sleeve head wadding, I guess…

  4. australiantailor
    Posted December 31, 2012 at 00:38 | Permalink | Reply

    Thanks for your work. Looking forward to reading “perfect jacket anatomy vol 2”

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