Perfect Jacket Anatomy vol.1 : Huntsman

Huntsman is the most expensive Savile Row brand, and also the one of goals of dandyism.
If it is the most expensive in Savile Row, people would therefore consider it to be the best in the world.  I know some people would disagree with this.

Well, it is time to show some evidence that it is the most expensive jacket / suit.  This jacket is from the 90’s, and I was quite amazed when I took it apart, as I couldn’t find any negative points.  I can’t talk about the cutting in this case, as I don’t know the shape of the customer Huntsman made this for.

The front edge is machined. we don’t often see a hand sewn facing, either. ( If you ask, They (we) do for you. )

Casually saying, the ways of tailoring of  this jacket  such as, no fusing, hand sewn shoulder seams, and hand sewn armholes, are not really seen in Savile Row now.  However, some tailors do prefer to hand sew sleeves and shoulders on occasion.

I was surprised about the hand sewn shoulders and armholes, so I asked a huntsman tailor (she’s now left and has started her own business) if Huntsman’s still uses these methods or not.  She answered “NO”.  She also told me using fusing is only for inside flaps and belly darts as a stay.  Lots of tailors use fusing as reinforcement. Some Savile Row companies also have a padding machine.

The development of techniques makes things easier for people and maybe and lazier.  As I know both Italian tailoring and work for Savile Row, I can’t say that more hand sewing is better……However, it is not possible to say that handmade is always better than machine made.

Is this type of jacket extinct though?

Huntsman Double Breasted Jacket

name tag

in-breast pocket

peaked lapel

out-breast, welt pocket

jetted pocket without a flap

back

front

back neck

padded back lapel

inside of cuff

inside of cuff

inside of cuff

armhole and sleevehead wadding

armhole and sleevehead wadding

armhole and sleevehead wadding

sleevehead wadding

hand made sleevehead made by 2 ply domette

basted armhole

inside out

pocket bags

wing pad

inside of back neck

armpit

armpit to inbreast pocket

a side strip attached to a vent

shoulder and wing pads

cuff structure

sleevehead wadding structure

sleeve linings

top sleeve lining

under sleeve lining

padded collar

padded collar

a pocket on a front facing

name tag

name tag and a pocket

pocket structure

facing

inside of front body

front body hem

front canvas

inside of a side vent on front body

pocket bags of a jetted pocket and a change pocket

padded lapel and bridle

domette

front dart on canvas

darts

this blue chalk mark indicates where fullness should be placed by bridle

canvas around armpit

canvas around armpit

side strip

inside structure

domette and haircloth

these linen stay shoulder dart

a pleat on pocket bag

an inside change pocket

pocket bags

a change pocket

front and armpit darts

change pocket

pocket structure

inside of jetted pocket

front bottom edge

naked lapel

front shoulder

armpit structure

darts and pocket mouth

side seam and its inlay

bottom and side of vent

based down top of side seam inlay

front body skin

side edge

around shoulder

jetted pocket structure

inside of back body hem

half back body

around shoulder on back body

inside of back body hem

back body hem structure

All photos by Wosanai